The Cleanest Line
Steve House

Steve House

Reinhold Messner called Steve House “the best high-altitude climber in the world today.” But for Steve, climbing is about process, not achievement. He says, “The moment your mind wanders from the climbing at hand will be the moment you fall.” Steve has earned Messner’s praise by leading the charge to climb bigger routes, from the Himalaya’s to the Canadian Rockies, faster and with less equipment than anyone before. He is the author of two books: Beyond the Mountain and Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete (cowritten with Scott Johnston). In 2012, Steve and his wife Eva cofounded Alpine Mentors a non-profit organization to mentor young climbers to safely become better alpinists.

Articles

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K6, Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan. Photo: Steve House

K6 & 7: The Weather Strikes Back

Aug 30, 2007 August 30, 2007

Steve House called again last night from the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan. As you know, he, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj have been acclimatizing for first ascents of the west faces of both K6 and K7. It was mostly high-fives and happy times until this report came in. Mother… Read More

K6, Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan. Photo: Steve House

K6 & 7: Acclimatizing on Two New Routes

Aug 27, 2007 August 27, 2007

I’ve changed the title of this series because in this week’s sat phone update Steve House clarifies that he, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj are actually gunning for new routes on both K6 & K7. Steve also talks about finishing up the acclimatization process, the two new routes they’ve… Read More

K6, Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan. Photo: Steve House

K6: Travel, Weather and Acclimatizing

Aug 18, 2007 August 18, 2007

I received this voicemail late Thursday night from Steve House. The call came via sat phone from basecamp in Pakistan where Steve, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj are in the first stages of attempting to climb K6. In this first update, you can listen to Steve talk about traveling… Read More

Steve House

Bonds and Ullrich: Lessons for Climbing

Jul 9, 2007 July 9, 2007

Jan Ullrich has earned an easy retirement. After winning the ’97 Tour de France at age 23 he became a German national-hero. For the next five years he battled Lance Armstrong earning a record five second-place finishes, too bad for him but it sure made for great racing. This year… Read More

K6, Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan. Photo: Steve House

Airfare and Intervals

Jun 13, 2007 June 13, 2007

You’re truly committed once you buy the plane ticket. And Friday (5/18) I bought my ticket for this summer’s expedition to K6 in north-eastern Pakistan and my mental state instantly changed. Commitment always precipitates realizations. I have a lot of things I want to do… Read More

Emperor Face: Completing an 11-year Dream Last Weekend

Emperor Face: Completing an 11-year Dream Last Weekend

May 31, 2007 May 31, 2007

April 1996: We had a hundred acres to plant – Ponderosa Pine, Doug Fir, and Blue Spruce – but the nursery kept claiming that the seedlings were buried underneath persistent snow. I was cooling my heels in LaGrande, Oregon, waiting for the work to begin when the call came. Read More