The Cleanest Line
Steve House

Steve House

Reinhold Messner called Steve House “the best high-altitude climber in the world today.” But for Steve, climbing is about process, not achievement. He says, “The moment your mind wanders from the climbing at hand will be the moment you fall.” Steve has earned Messner’s praise by leading the charge to climb bigger routes, from the Himalaya’s to the Canadian Rockies, faster and with less equipment than anyone before. He is the author of two books: Beyond the Mountain and Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete (cowritten with Scott Johnston). In 2012, Steve and his wife Eva cofounded Alpine Mentors a non-profit organization to mentor young climbers to safely become better alpinists.

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Located 14 miles east of Mt. Everest, on the border between Nepal and China, Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world (27,762 ft). Photo: Marko Prezelj

A Day at the Desk

Aug 21, 2008 August 21, 2008

Editor’s note: Today we have the first entry in another series of posts chronicling a major climb by Steve House. Steve, along with fellow Patagonia ambassadors Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj, will be attempting the unclimbed West Face of Makalu come September. They received… Read More

Vince following the first pitch on the upper headwall, the seventh belayed pitch of the route. This pitch had a bit of loose rock on it, but protected well with a good crack on the climber's left. I discovered an old anchor mid-way up this pitch. Later I discovered this anchor was put in by Barry Blanchard when he made the third ascent of the Lowe-Glidden route in the early ‘90s. Barry had led partway up, discovered he was too far right of his intended route and rapped back down to the belay.

Photos from the North Face of Mount Alberta

Apr 24, 2008 April 24, 2008

In March I went up to the Canadian Rockies, one of my favorite mountain ranges, and spent a few weeks doing some winter climbing. What was most exciting about this season was that there was so much climbing activity. Lots of locals doing lots of cool new routes and new… Read More

At Laguna Toncek you find Refugio Frey and Aguja Frey. Aguja Frey offers the closest climbing to the camping and the hut.

Rock Climbing Near Bariloche

Mar 17, 2008 March 17, 2008

Jeanne Young and I just returned from a rock climbing trip near Bariloche, Argentina. Beautiful alpine rock climbing. It’s a five-hour hike into a lake basin where there is free camping and a hut. We ate dinner (and drank red wine) at the hut each night, camped out on the… Read More

Steve House

Signing Off from Pakistan

Sep 28, 2007 September 28, 2007

Steve House is home from Pakistan now, but before getting on his flight in Islamabad he made one last call to close out his trip and introduce us to a special guest. In this last update we get to hear from Mr. Saad Tariq Siddiqi, the Honorable Secretary of the… Read More

Steve House

Fare Thee Well Charakusa Valley

Sep 20, 2007 September 20, 2007

Steve House took the time to make one last call amidst the hustle and bustle of packing up base camp and organizing 30 porters. It’s a little rough around the edges but the sentiment is appreciated. Listen to Steve House Update… Read More

K6, Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan. Photo: Steve House

“Clinically” Blue Skies Inspire K6 West Attempt

Sep 17, 2007 September 17, 2007

Today we have a double-shot from Steve House. Apologies for not posting Update 9 sooner. In it Steve share’s Marko’s assessment of the weather, and he describes the Sierra-style climb that was mentioned in the last update, including the surprise they found at the top… Read More

First Bath Since August 16th

First Bath Since August 16th

Sep 12, 2007 September 12, 2007

As promised, Steve House called in again with a quick update from the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan. It sounds like the weather has been bad enough to put the kibosh on K6 West. On the upside, the team is hoping to get out for a Sierra-style rock climb that… Read More

Steve House

The Story of K7 West

Sep 10, 2007 September 10, 2007

If you’ve been following the sat phone updates from Steve House here on The Cleanest Line you know that he, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj recently summited the previously unclimbed West Peak of K7 in Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley. Today we present a complete recap of the climb as told by… Read More

K6 & 7: K7 West Goes

K6 & 7: K7 West Goes

Sep 4, 2007 September 4, 2007

While the rest of us were barbequing, sitting in traffic or off on an adventure of our own, Steve House, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj successfully climbed the west summit of K7. Check out Steve’s short update from this morning and stay tuned for a more detailed account of… Read More

K6, Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan. Photo: Steve House

K6 & 7: Scouting and Starting K7

Aug 31, 2007 August 31, 2007

In this report from the Charakusa Valley, Steve House gives us an excellent description of K7’s features and explains how the team must find a way through the granite buttresses surrounding the base in order to get up on the mountain. Steve also talks about a special lunch they… Read More

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