The Cleanest Line
Steve House

Steve House

Reinhold Messner called Steve House “the best high-altitude climber in the world today.” But for Steve, climbing is about process, not achievement. He says, “The moment your mind wanders from the climbing at hand will be the moment you fall.” Steve has earned Messner’s praise by leading the charge to climb bigger routes, from the Himalaya’s to the Canadian Rockies, faster and with less equipment than anyone before. He is the author of two books: Beyond the Mountain and Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete (cowritten with Scott Johnston). In 2012, Steve and his wife Eva cofounded Alpine Mentors a non-profit organization to mentor young climbers to safely become better alpinists.

Articles

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Makalu 2009: High Altitude Pulmonary Edema

Makalu 2009: High Altitude Pulmonary Edema

May 14, 2009 May 14, 2009

[The proud west face, October 2008. "My goal for this trip is to assessthe feasibility of a route out of the upper most (right hand) ice fieldin the center-right of this face. The top of the top ice field is about7,400 meters. I hope to get there and… Read More

Makalu 2009: Getting Acclimated

Makalu 2009: Getting Acclimated

May 12, 2009 May 12, 2009

With his sat. phone all repaired, Steve House called from Makalu base camp last Thursday. Then it was our turn for technical difficulties here in Ventura. Now that everything's up and running again we're happy to share Steve's first phone update from the base of Makalu's West Face, the… Read More

Makalu 2009: Makalu Again

Makalu 2009: Makalu Again

Apr 29, 2009 April 29, 2009

Editor's note: After an unsuccessful attempt last year due to foul weather, Steve House is heading back to Makalu for some more reconnaissance and possibly another alpine-style attempt at the west face. Steve sent the following email yesterday from the halfway point on the nine-day trek… Read More

Farewell Makalu. Until next time? Photo: Marko Prezelj

Makalu: The Last Installment

Nov 11, 2008 November 11, 2008

The last time Steve House called from Makalu base camp in Nepal, we heard that strong winds had kept he, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj from even starting up the West Face. It was a major disappointment after all the team went through to get… Read More

Located 14 miles east of Mt. Everest, on the border between Nepal and China, Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world (27,762 ft). Photo: Marko Prezelj

Makalu: Blown Away

Oct 31, 2008 October 31, 2008

Steve, Vince and Marko spent last night at the base of the wall but returned to base camp this morning due to extremely strong winds. Attempting Makalu’s West Face in less than ideal conditions is one thing, attempting it in a storm of flying rocks and ice chunks is… Read More

Located 14 miles east of Mt. Everest, on the border between Nepal and China, Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world (27,762 ft). Photo: Marko Prezelj

Makalu: Heading Up

Oct 30, 2008 October 30, 2008

As promised, Steve House called again just before leaving base camp for the West Face. This is an interesting call because the revised weather forecast isn’t as good as the team expected. Download or click the link to hear Steve explain. Listen to Makalu Update 7… Read More

Located 14 miles east of Mt. Everest, on the border between Nepal and China, Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world (27,762 ft). Photo: Marko Prezelj

Makalu: You Gotta Believe

Oct 28, 2008 October 28, 2008

With a little over a week left at base camp, everyone on the team is feeling healthy and optimistic about attempting their main objective. Weather is still an issue but the team’s meteorologist, Jim Woodmencey at mountainweather.com, says a window is coming soon. In today’s… Read More

Located 14 miles east of Mt. Everest, on the border between Nepal and China, Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world (27,762 ft). Photo: Marko Prezelj

Makalu: Happy Birthday Marko

Oct 15, 2008 October 15, 2008

Two Makalu trip updates for you today, one from Steve and one from Vince. First up is Steve House calling in from the sat phone. He might not sound so hot but his illness is getting better: Listen to Makalu Update 4 (mp3 –… Read More

Located 14 miles east of Mt. Everest, on the border between Nepal and China, Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world (27,762 ft). Photo: Marko Prezelj

Makalu: All Settled in Base Camp

Oct 8, 2008 October 8, 2008

No call from Hi, We are all settled in base camp now. All of our equipment finally arrived. We are at 18,500 ft. Steve is still ill with a cough though seems to be getting better. Marko and I hiked up a small peak behind camp that is about… Read More

Located 14 miles east of Mt. Everest, on the border between Nepal and China, Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world (27,762 ft). Photo: Marko Prezelj

Makalu: Is that Red Light Supposed to be On?

Oct 2, 2008 October 2, 2008

What do you do when the helicopter you booked is suddenly grounded with engine failure? You repack everything, get as close to the mountain as possible and haul ass on foot. In today’s sat phone update from Nepal, Steve House describes how the Makalu trip… Read More

Located 14 miles east of Mt. Everest, on the border between Nepal and China, Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world (27,762 ft). Photo: Marko Prezelj

Makalu: Trekking, Snakes & Snow Monkeys

Sep 22, 2008 September 22, 2008

Steve House called last night to give us another update from Nepal. The team has been trekking at altitude for a few days now to help with the acclimatization process. Listen to Makalu Update 2 (mp3 – 6:43 – right-click to download) As Steve… Read More

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