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Trad Guy Sporto Tips

Trad Guy Sporto Tips

By Kelly Cordes   |   Aug 26, 2011 August 26, 2011

I try to embrace all forms of climbing, and I can learn something from everything. Furthermore, the more things I’m willing to climb, the more fun I can have. Jack of all trades, master of none, baby. Wintertime? Don’t whine, ice climb. Only got a few hours? Clip some… Read More

Memorial Day Marg Recipe

Memorial Day Marg Recipe

By Kelly Cordes   |   May 27, 2011 May 27, 2011

I like the idea of dancing skeletons. They seem happy and free. I like dancing, too, though I don’t do it much, at least not in public (be grateful; I just do the same disco moves over and over again while sporting my whiteman’s overbite). But I love the… Read More

Kelly gearing up for his first climb since fall. Photo: Cordes Collection

Big Boy and the Pink Tape Route

By Kelly Cordes   |   May 12, 2011 May 12, 2011

Over the years and all of these injuries, I’ve learned some things about success and failure. I’ve learned that there is one way, indisputable and proven through the ages, to ensure success. You lower your expectations. And so on my first day back climbing two weeks ago, I scanned… Read More

Bummed on the bus. After failing on their first attempt, Nellie and Brittany contemplate their next shot. Photo: Cedar Wright

Unusual Suspects

By Brittany Griffith   |   May 3, 2011 May 3, 2011

My springtime objective (okay, to be perfectly honest, it has been a dream of mine for a long time) of free climbing Zion’s Moonlight Buttress was quickly unraveling. My partner, Nellie, had spent the previous night projectile vomiting in a rental van. Puke everywhere—in her shoes, on her pack and… Read More

Desert bloom in Indian Creek. Photo: Andrew Burr

Desert Rembrance

By Brittany Griffith   |   Apr 26, 2011 April 26, 2011

Early spring means it’s desert season. Well, it does now. Fifteen years ago it meant belaying my boyfriend on his three-year sport-climbing project in the Virgin River Gorge. Now, I spend March and April weekends climbing sandstone splitters in the beautiful desert of southeast Utah. Back in the 1990s,… Read More

Operation Algeria – Part Five

Operation Algeria – Part Five

By Jonathan Thesenga   |   Feb 28, 2011 February 28, 2011

Day 14 and our last here in southern Algeria. As is our tradition on international climbing trips we got a hotel room for our last night in-country as a way to smooth the transition back to the “real world” and finally take a shower. It was Brittany’s birthday yesterday… Read More

Operation Algeria – Part Four

Operation Algeria – Part Four

By Jonathan Thesenga   |   Feb 22, 2011 February 22, 2011

Day Nine here in Algeria and the adventure sweetness keeps rolling along. Today is a rest day and we spent it hiking off into some distant wadis to investigate some attractive-looking summits we saw from afar (which turned out to be choss). We followed old goat trails through the… Read More

Operation Algeria – Part Three

Operation Algeria – Part Three

By Jonathan Thesenga   |   Feb 22, 2011 February 22, 2011

It’s the end of Day Six of our trip to Algeria and we are freezing. Seriously. All of our clothes on—including long underwear and down jackets! How is that possible? Aren’t we in the Sahara? Well, delete those pictures of sand dunes and palm-tree-fringed oasis from your mind—we are… Read More

Operation Algeria – Part Two

Operation Algeria – Part Two

By Jonathan Thesenga   |   Feb 15, 2011 February 15, 2011

End of Day Three here in Algeria and it’s safe to say we’ve already had an amazing adventure. Brittany and I have traveled and climbed in Mali, Morroco and Oman, so we are no strangers to the desert terrain of northern Africa and the Arabian Peninsula, but southern Algeria… Read More

Operation Algeria – Part One

Operation Algeria – Part One

By Jonathan Thesenga   |   Feb 11, 2011 February 11, 2011

Last week, 14 Al Qaeda in the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM) terrorists in southern Algeria kidnapped an Italian woman. The terrorists escaped with her across the Sahara and disappeared into the no-mans land of northern Niger. 2007 was an especially bad year in Algeria with a reported 375 people kidnapped;… Read More

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