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Dirtbag Diaries: Crash and Burn

Dirtbag Diaries: Crash and Burn

By The Dirtbag Diaries   |   Sep 13, 2012 September 13, 2012

Drive it until it dies. That’s the motto I lived by as my truck, Crash, crisscrossed the West. Family members would doubtfully ask, “Are you sure you want to drive there?” I did. Friends would ask about Crash’s well being as though he was my aging dog. Though I… Read More

Will Stanhope climbing The Prophet, El Capitan. Photo: Sonnie Trotter

The Prophet

By Sonnie Trotter   |   Dec 16, 2011 December 16, 2011

On El Capitan in 2010, British rock climbers Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles completed their nine-year project, The Prophet (600m, E9 7a, 5.13d R). The difficult and dangerous new route climbs the far right side of El Cap, and Houlding, renowned worldwide for his boldness and… Read More

Late-day light on the Dawn Wall, on Tommy’s final effort. Photo: Kelly Cordes

Talent

By localcrew   |   Dec 2, 2011 December 2, 2011

I’ve long thought that the most wasted resource on earth is talent. Talent abounds, yet optimizing its potential requires devoted effort. Of course we also have to consider opportunity, and the whole talent-and-effort issue makes regular news. There’s the “10,000-Hour Rule” of practice, popularized by Malcolm Gladwell… Read More

Tommy recovering after a fall on one of the many crux pitches. Photo: Rebecca Caldwell

Recap on El Cap – Another Butt-Kicking

By Tommy Caldwell   |   Nov 23, 2011 November 23, 2011

Today, Tommy Caldwell writes about the conclusion of another season of trying to free-climb the Dawn Wall. And coming up empty – though that’s really not the right word. We’ve covered his efforts in multiple posts (click here, here, or here),… Read More

Above: Looking up from the base of the Dawn Wall, with Tommy’s camp visible. Photo: Kelly Cordes

Being Barney Rubble

By Kelly Cordes   |   Nov 7, 2011 November 7, 2011

Damn, I thought as I glanced around, I’m like Barney Rubble at a superhero convention. Sonnie Trotter to my left, Alex Honnold to my right. I know what you’re thinking: Did you owe those guys money? Or maybe: Oh, one of… Read More

Tommy on the Dawn Wall, practicing this one move I taught him. Photo: Kyle Berkompas

Family Affair on the Dawn Wall

By Kelly Cordes   |   Nov 1, 2011 November 1, 2011

When I see a photo of someone climbing a severely overhanging 5.14 limestone sport route, I marvel at the physical prowess. Amazing. And though I can’t imagine being that good myself, I can see how some people can do it; I can sort of imagine it. At least… Read More

Above: Enjoying a rare rest and looking ahead to the daunting crux of the climb. Photo: Becca Caldwell

Back on the Dawn Wall with Tommy Caldwell

By Tommy Caldwell   |   Oct 18, 2011 October 18, 2011

I wiggle the tip of my pinky finger into a small opening in the crack, and step high onto a small edge. Ouch! Maybe if I focus harder on the moves I will forget the pain. I pull onto the rock again, climb a few feet, then surrender. Such… Read More

Fighting Forty – Part One

Fighting Forty – Part One

Dec 1, 2010 December 1, 2010

It's tough to say who's been getting more exercise lately, Kelly Cordes or his insurance policy. TCL regulars might remember his recent injury, a dislocation he wrote about back in October. As the surgery date approaches, Kelly's found himself in a pensive mood. Today we offer the first in a… Read More

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