The Cleanest Line

Climbing

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Above: 

The Trip

By Kitty Calhoun   |   Dec 8, 2014 December 8, 2014

I anticipated the change with dread and excitement. My son was leaving the nest for college and I was determined to return to my former goal-driven climbing lifestyle. Fred Becky would be proud of me. After a night of mourning, alone under the desert stars, I promptly returned home,… Read More

Above: Mikey Schaefer photo of me climbing the penultimate arch pitch.

The Final Frontier

By James Lucas   |   Aug 6, 2013 August 6, 2013

I screamed at the granite wall. The sound bounced off Yosemite’s Fifi Buttress and drowned into the roar of Bridalveil Falls. I lowered to the belay, where Katie stood at a small stance. I was six inches from a free ascent. It felt like six miles. I’d cleaned the… Read More

Above: David Griffith heads up the final 20-foot roof pitch of Wet Denim Daydream, Leaning Tower, Yosemite California. Photo: Marta
Czajkowska

Throw the Line

By Marta Czajkowska   |   May 30, 2013 May 30, 2013

Any wall climber will see that something is missing in that photo, trail line. The leader trails a small line so they can pull up a haul line to haul the bag. Right where the photo was taken, at the lip of the roof, Dgriff realized that he’d forgotten… Read More

Above: Frame grab from Making Tommy. Hit the jump to watch the video.

Making Tommy

By Kelly Cordes   |   Mar 7, 2013 March 7, 2013

Do you ever wonder how the greats became great? Of course there’s no easy answer, no definitive answer, never a formula – they’re human, and human factors interact in infinite ways. Opportunity, natural talent, innate drive, developed drive, mental toughness, perspective, thought processes, influences, dedication, work ethic and who-knows-what-else,… Read More

Above: Mikey Schaefer rests on a relatively large stance as he contemplates his gear options. Photo: Jeff Johnson

Beyond and Back: Father Time

By Jeff Johnson   |   Oct 8, 2012 October 8, 2012

Middle Cathedral: the ugly stepbrother of El Capitan that sits just across the valley, shoulders slumped, hiding his dark north-facing flanks that almost never see sun. The monolith hosts many seldom-climbed classics: Stoner’s Highway, the Direct North Buttress or DMB (more commonly known as the “do not bother”), Quicksilver… Read More

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