The Cleanest Line


Makalu 2009: Makalu Again

Makalu 2009: Makalu Again

By Steve House   |   Apr 29, 2009 April 29, 2009

Editor's note: After an unsuccessful attempt last year due to foul weather, Steve House is heading back to Makalu for some more reconnaissance and possibly another alpine-style attempt at the west face. Steve sent the following email yesterday from the halfway point on the nine-day trek… Read More

At Laguna Toncek you find Refugio Frey and Aguja Frey. Aguja Frey offers the closest climbing to the camping and the hut.

Rock Climbing Near Bariloche

By Steve House   |   Mar 17, 2008 March 17, 2008

Jeanne Young and I just returned from a rock climbing trip near Bariloche, Argentina. Beautiful alpine rock climbing. It’s a five-hour hike into a lake basin where there is free camping and a hut. We ate dinner (and drank red wine) at the hut each night, camped out on the… Read More

Located 14 miles east of Mt. Everest, on the border between Nepal and China, Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world (27,762 ft). Photo: Marko Prezelj

A Day at the Desk

By Steve House   |   Aug 21, 2008 August 21, 2008

Editor’s note: Today we have the first entry in another series of posts chronicling a major climb by Steve House. Steve, along with fellow Patagonia ambassadors Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj, will be attempting the unclimbed West Face of Makalu come September. They received… Read More

Makalu 2009: Final Post with Photos

Makalu 2009: Final Post with Photos

By Steve House   |   Jun 16, 2009 June 16, 2009

I’ve been home from Makalu almost two weeks now and it’s been almost three weeks since I last posted — time flies. I was able to leave base camp very quickly because Cory Richards injured his knee in the deep snow just a few hours from… Read More

Makalu 2009: Back to Normal

Makalu 2009: Back to Normal

By Steve House   |   May 19, 2009 May 19, 2009

After last week's scary call it was great to hear a spry sounding Steve House on the voicemail this morning. He recovered well from his bout with HAPE and will be heading up to camp 2 on Makalu's normal route tomorrow. Have a listen and you'll… Read More

Vince following the first pitch on the upper headwall, the seventh belayed pitch of the route. This pitch had a bit of loose rock on it, but protected well with a good crack on the climber's left. I discovered an old anchor mid-way up this pitch. Later I discovered this anchor was put in by Barry Blanchard when he made the third ascent of the Lowe-Glidden route in the early ‘90s. Barry had led partway up, discovered he was too far right of his intended route and rapped back down to the belay.

Photos from the North Face of Mount Alberta

By Steve House   |   Apr 24, 2008 April 24, 2008

In March I went up to the Canadian Rockies, one of my favorite mountain ranges, and spent a few weeks doing some winter climbing. What was most exciting about this season was that there was so much climbing activity. Lots of locals doing lots of cool new routes and new… Read More

Dirtbag Diaries: The Dreamers

Dirtbag Diaries: The Dreamers

Jun 19, 2009 June 19, 2009

It's Friday, and the Dirtbag Diaries are here to help you celebrate solstice with some sonic storytelling. Show host Fitz Cahall has the beta on today's episode: “I had convinced myself at that point that my goal was so important it was worth dying for,” says alpine… Read More

K6, Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan. Photo: Steve House

Airfare and Intervals

By Steve House   |   Jun 13, 2007 June 13, 2007

You’re truly committed once you buy the plane ticket. And Friday (5/18) I bought my ticket for this summer’s expedition to K6 in north-eastern Pakistan and my mental state instantly changed. Commitment always precipitates realizations. I have a lot of things I want to do… Read More