The Cleanest Line

Climbing

Artwork: Walker Cahall

Escape from Beacon Rock

By The Dirtbag Diaries   |   Mar 23, 2018 March 23, 2018

“For me, it was a way to stay connected, literally: tied to my free-range daughter by a length of 10-millimeter climbing rope, and connected to my own dream of being an adventurer,” says David Altschul. “And that was how I found myself, a few days later, on a ledge, high… Read More

Illustration: Walker Cahall

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By The Dirtbag Diaries   |   Aug 7, 2017 August 7, 2017

“Picture walking through a parking lot with a ski mask rolled up on your head and a pistol in your pocket. You’re getting closer to the bank, your heart’s beating faster, adrenaline’s starting to rush through your head, and you can’t believe you’re about to do what you’re about to… Read More

Illustration: Walker Cahall

Picaflor

By The Dirtbag Diaries   |   May 30, 2017 May 30, 2017

When a bad breakup sent him spiraling into a deep depression, Tom Ireson fixated on an unconventional way to get his head straight. “I really needed something to focus my mind on to pull me out of that,” Tom says, “and about the biggest thing I could think of was to… Read More

Graphic: Walker Cahall

Dirtbag Diaries Podcast: To Infinity

By The Dirtbag Diaries   |   Dec 23, 2016 December 23, 2016

Chad Kellogg. September 22, 1971 to February 14, 2014. Seattle climbing community legend. Dear friend to many. And the toughest guy around. “For Chad, not eating and shivering on ledges, that was like skiing powder for him. It was just that fun,” remembers Jens Holsten. Today, we take… Read More

Going Monk?

Going Monk?

By Kelly Cordes   |   Jul 9, 2012 July 9, 2012

I gotta dig down, I gotta go monk. Ever seen Zoolander? Of course you have. Me, too – about a hundred times. It’s a hilarious spoof on the world of male modeling, and there’s that classic scene of the “walk-off” challenge when, between rounds, Hansel digs deep and pulls out… Read More

Patagonia Climbing Ambassador Pete Whittaker takes a breather to avoid going batty on his attempt to climb Century Crack. Canyonlands, Utah. Photo: Alex Ekins via WideBoyz blog.

WideBoyz on Century Crack: Talking Grades

By localcrew   |   Dec 7, 2011 December 7, 2011

Take a peek at the latest issue of Climbing magazine and you’ll find Patagonia climbing ambassador Pete Whittaker sporting the kind of face that only climbing offwidths can produce. The story that goes with this photo: “The World’s First 5.14 Offwidth.” Together with his partner Tom… Read More

Late-day light on the Dawn Wall, on Tommy’s final effort. Photo: Kelly Cordes

Talent

By localcrew   |   Dec 2, 2011 December 2, 2011

I’ve long thought that the most wasted resource on earth is talent. Talent abounds, yet optimizing its potential requires devoted effort. Of course we also have to consider opportunity, and the whole talent-and-effort issue makes regular news. There’s the “10,000-Hour Rule” of practice, popularized by Malcolm Gladwell… Read More

Tommy recovering after a fall on one of the many crux pitches. Photo: Rebecca Caldwell

Recap on El Cap – Another Butt-Kicking

By Tommy Caldwell   |   Nov 23, 2011 November 23, 2011

Today, Tommy Caldwell writes about the conclusion of another season of trying to free-climb the Dawn Wall. And coming up empty – though that’s really not the right word. We’ve covered his efforts in multiple posts (click here, here, or here),… Read More

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