The Cleanest Line

Climbing

Going Monk?

Going Monk?

By Kelly Cordes   |   Jul 9, 2012 July 9, 2012

I gotta dig down, I gotta go monk. Ever seen Zoolander? Of course you have. Me, too – about a hundred times. It’s a hilarious spoof on the world of male modeling, and there’s that classic scene of the “walk-off” challenge when, between rounds, Hansel digs deep and pulls out… Read More

Patagonia Climbing Ambassador Pete Whittaker takes a breather to avoid going batty on his attempt to climb Century Crack. Canyonlands, Utah. Photo: Alex Ekins via WideBoyz blog.

WideBoyz on Century Crack: Talking Grades

By localcrew   |   Dec 7, 2011 December 7, 2011

Take a peek at the latest issue of Climbing magazine and you’ll find Patagonia climbing ambassador Pete Whittaker sporting the kind of face that only climbing offwidths can produce. The story that goes with this photo: “The World’s First 5.14 Offwidth.” Together with his partner Tom… Read More

Late-day light on the Dawn Wall, on Tommy’s final effort. Photo: Kelly Cordes

Talent

By localcrew   |   Dec 2, 2011 December 2, 2011

I’ve long thought that the most wasted resource on earth is talent. Talent abounds, yet optimizing its potential requires devoted effort. Of course we also have to consider opportunity, and the whole talent-and-effort issue makes regular news. There’s the “10,000-Hour Rule” of practice, popularized by Malcolm Gladwell… Read More

Tommy recovering after a fall on one of the many crux pitches. Photo: Rebecca Caldwell

Recap on El Cap – Another Butt-Kicking

By Tommy Caldwell   |   Nov 23, 2011 November 23, 2011

Today, Tommy Caldwell writes about the conclusion of another season of trying to free-climb the Dawn Wall. And coming up empty – though that’s really not the right word. We’ve covered his efforts in multiple posts (click here, here, or here),… Read More

Another inspired creation is ready for a final toasting in the oven. All photos: Brittany Griffith

Exploding Freezer Beer Pasta

By Brittany Griffith   |   Nov 9, 2011 November 9, 2011

We leave for Sicily tomorrow and I have to admit that despite new-route potential on 300-meter-tall Mediterranean seaside cliffs, I’m almost as excited to eat and drink wine. I read in the Lonely Planet guide that, “Most Sicilian dishes fall into the category of cucina povera (cooking… Read More

Tommy on the Dawn Wall, practicing this one move I taught him. Photo: Kyle Berkompas

Family Affair on the Dawn Wall

By Kelly Cordes   |   Nov 1, 2011 November 1, 2011

When I see a photo of someone climbing a severely overhanging 5.14 limestone sport route, I marvel at the physical prowess. Amazing. And though I can’t imagine being that good myself, I can see how some people can do it; I can sort of imagine it. At least… Read More

Parking lot Limbo. Photo: Kelly Cordes

Halloween Bloodbath (?)

By Kelly Cordes   |   Oct 28, 2011 October 28, 2011

“It’s gonna be a bloodbath!” The words rocked me back to my mullet years in the 80s, back in high school, central Pennsylvania. “Oh my,” Mean Gene would usually add. I’m talking about Mean Gene Okerlund, the rounded, balding, deadpan serious WWF announcer. As you… Read More

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