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Mullestachetino

Mullestachetino

Oct 18, 2010 October 18, 2010

“You’re such a redneck navigator,” Lizzy tells me. I’m in charge of getting us to a place in the South Platte where neither of us had been, and it’s dark, and I’m sitting in the passenger seat with a crooked map in one hand and a yuppie-Nalgene in the… Read More

Airy Ariana and the Cankle

Airy Ariana and the Cankle

By Kelly Cordes   |   Oct 11, 2010 October 11, 2010

Summer left for fall the week before, and my super long shot goal slipped away. So it goes, I told myself, I had an awesome summer and am still months-to-a-year ahead of rehab schedule. Besides, climbing means nothing. OK, OK, let me get this straight: so there’s this hunk… Read More

Going Up

Going Up

Oct 1, 2010 October 1, 2010

In the dank and smoky Fairview bar in Talkeetna, Alaska, 2003, I learned the simple secret to hard climbing. Jonny Copp and I had just come out of the Range, and we swilled beers with a couple of rowdy Brits. As usual, Jonny had been the driving… Read More

Just a Five-Minute Run

Just a Five-Minute Run

Sep 24, 2010 September 24, 2010

You won’t run again. I don’t really set concrete goals. In fact, I find it best to have no goals whatsoever; that way I won’t be disappointed if I don’t reach them. Hopefully some hiking by mid-summer, and some easy climbs by fall. Seriously, for me the goals are… Read More

Granite China – Part Three

Granite China – Part Three

By Kelly Cordes   |   Sep 21, 2010 September 21, 2010

We’ve been reporting on Tommy Caldwell and crew’s trip to northern China’s Keketuohai National Geological Park, rumored to be a granite wonderland – but with challenging access (see parts one and two). Well, it turns out, both rumors proved true. But hopefully the… Read More

Granite China – Part Two

Granite China – Part Two

By Kelly Cordes   |   Sep 13, 2010 September 13, 2010

Details emerge in our second update on Granite China. Did the crew get to climb? Our inside informant (me) uncovered a few details. The reason for the previously spotty details is that, while there, our team had poor phone reception and couldn’t access the World Wide Web. Read More

Granite China

Granite China

By Kelly Cordes   |   Sep 10, 2010 September 10, 2010

The other day we got a voice message from the man himself, Tommy Caldwell, calling from China with an update on their rock scramblin’ explorations. It’s a great crew: Tommy and his wife, Becca; young phenom Hayden “Wu Tang!” Kennedy; master artist, climber… Read More

Sketchy Kelly Finds His Yellow Belly

Sketchy Kelly Finds His Yellow Belly

Sep 8, 2010 September 8, 2010

[Ed Note: Kelly lets us write the title, so of course we're going to take a chance to tease him. And it goes without saying, but we'll say it anyways for all those bone-heads out there who are too-cool for school: there's nothing yella-bellied about protecting your skull. Wearing… Read More

The Shackboy Labor Day Marg

The Shackboy Labor Day Marg

By Kelly Cordes   |   Sep 3, 2010 September 3, 2010

I love the characters in our world. They color things, make everything interesting, and so often dwell on the fringe. Maybe it was a compliment when my friend, The Chief, got lectured by his father: “When are you drifters gonna move out of the gray area and… Read More

Ultra Tough

Ultra Tough

Aug 30, 2010 August 30, 2010

There’s a great saying that goes, “If you don’t travel, you stagnate.” I think the idea also applies to engaging ourselves with people beyond our usual crowd. We can so easily get stuck in our own little circles, which also breeds stagnation and ignorance. And so two weekends ago… Read More

American Alpine Journal Gems from 2010

American Alpine Journal Gems from 2010

Aug 25, 2010 August 25, 2010

My vote for Gem of the year in the AAJ 2010 (which just came out and was recently mailed to AAC members and contributors) goes to someone many of us already know from the film 180 South: Jeff Johnson. [Top right: The 2010 AAJ. Read More

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