The Cleanest Line

Climbing

Going Monk?

Going Monk?

By Kelly Cordes   |   Jul 9, 2012 July 9, 2012

I gotta dig down, I gotta go monk. Ever seen Zoolander? Of course you have. Me, too – about a hundred times. It’s a hilarious spoof on the world of male modeling, and there’s that classic scene of the “walk-off” challenge when, between rounds, Hansel digs deep and pulls out… Read More

Patagonia Climbing Ambassador Pete Whittaker takes a breather to avoid going batty on his attempt to climb Century Crack. Canyonlands, Utah. Photo: Alex Ekins via WideBoyz blog.

WideBoyz on Century Crack: Talking Grades

By localcrew   |   Dec 7, 2011 December 7, 2011

Take a peek at the latest issue of Climbing magazine and you’ll find Patagonia climbing ambassador Pete Whittaker sporting the kind of face that only climbing offwidths can produce. The story that goes with this photo: “The World’s First 5.14 Offwidth.” Together with his partner Tom… Read More

Late-day light on the Dawn Wall, on Tommy’s final effort. Photo: Kelly Cordes

Talent

By localcrew   |   Dec 2, 2011 December 2, 2011

I’ve long thought that the most wasted resource on earth is talent. Talent abounds, yet optimizing its potential requires devoted effort. Of course we also have to consider opportunity, and the whole talent-and-effort issue makes regular news. There’s the “10,000-Hour Rule” of practice, popularized by Malcolm Gladwell… Read More

Above: The unclimbed southwest face of Kusum Kanguru on November 8, 2011. Photo:Tom Schnugg

Kusum Kanguru – Taking the Gear for a Walk

By Barry Blanchard   |   Dec 1, 2011 December 1, 2011

In the spring of 1991 I was guiding in the Everest Region of Nepal – the Khumbu. Knowing that I would be looking to climb a route on Kusum Kanguru on my own after the departure of my last climbing guest, my Sirdar, Tensing and I took advantage of… Read More

Tommy recovering after a fall on one of the many crux pitches. Photo: Rebecca Caldwell

Recap on El Cap – Another Butt-Kicking

By Tommy Caldwell   |   Nov 23, 2011 November 23, 2011

Today, Tommy Caldwell writes about the conclusion of another season of trying to free-climb the Dawn Wall. And coming up empty – though that’s really not the right word. We’ve covered his efforts in multiple posts (click here, here, or here),… Read More

Tommy on the Dawn Wall, practicing this one move I taught him. Photo: Kyle Berkompas

Family Affair on the Dawn Wall

By Kelly Cordes   |   Nov 1, 2011 November 1, 2011

When I see a photo of someone climbing a severely overhanging 5.14 limestone sport route, I marvel at the physical prowess. Amazing. And though I can’t imagine being that good myself, I can see how some people can do it; I can sort of imagine it. At least… Read More

Connecting the dots on a Motherlode classic. Photo: Keith Ladzinski

Seeing Red

By Brittany Griffith   |   Oct 19, 2011 October 19, 2011

I hung limp on the end of the rope with my forehead resting on the taut line. I felt my throat tighten. I hadn’t been this frustrated in a very long time. I realized a long time ago that grades were relative, but it seemed everyone here, 30-40 people,… Read More

WideBoyz Take on America’s Gnarliest Offwidths

WideBoyz Take on America’s Gnarliest Offwidths

By Pete Whittaker   |   Sep 28, 2011 September 28, 2011

Patagonia climbing ambassador Pete Whittaker, climbing partner Tom Randall, and photographer friend Alex Ekins recently arrived in the U.S. with a singular – if not enviable – objective: tick off America's nastiest off-widths. If you follow the global climbing scene, you might recognize the duo… Read More

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