The Cleanest Line

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Photo: Fred Beckey Archive

Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey

By Dave O’Leske   |   Aug 9, 2016 August 9, 2016

This all began when I decided to hand-write a letter that I figured would never be read. I definitely did not expect it to be answered. First, I had to find the address of a man I wasn’t even sure had one. I’ve always been intrigued by the pioneers of… Read More

Graphic: Walker Cahall

Dirtbag Diaries Podcast: To Infinity

By The Dirtbag Diaries   |   Dec 23, 2016 December 23, 2016

Chad Kellogg. September 22, 1971 to February 14, 2014. Seattle climbing community legend. Dear friend to many. And the toughest guy around. “For Chad, not eating and shivering on ledges, that was like skiing powder for him. It was just that fun,” remembers Jens Holsten. Today, we take… Read More

“Somehow, the desert would always remain in the recesses of my mind—that project I’d get to the next season, that crack we scoped that we needed to get anchors on or sometimes just that meditation and erasing of anything from the past or present.” -Luke Mehall, The Desert. Photo: Greg Cairns

The Magic of the Desert

By Luke Mehall   |   Aug 23, 2019 August 23, 2019

The creation of Bears Ears National Monument was something that seemed more inevitable in the summer of 2016. It seems like now it’s one of those things where you’re on one side or the other because after all, I’m writing this book in the Trump years, and… Read More

The 1964 red-cover guidebook was Yosemite Valley’s first collection of climbs. Photo: Mikey Schaefer

The Red Book

By Timmy O’Neill   |   Oct 10, 2019 October 10, 2019

Lessons from Yosemite’s first climbing guidebook “I have this idea,” Mikey texted last October. “Let’s climb all of the suggested routes from the Yosemite red-cover guidebook.” I agreed immediately. The tattered copy of A Climber’s Guide to Yosemite Valley arrived in the mail less than a week later. First published in… Read More

Illustration: Walker Cahall

Picaflor

By The Dirtbag Diaries   |   May 30, 2017 May 30, 2017

When a bad breakup sent him spiraling into a deep depression, Tom Ireson fixated on an unconventional way to get his head straight. “I really needed something to focus my mind on to pull me out of that,” Tom says, “and about the biggest thing I could think of was to… Read More

If you love something, set it free. Eliza Kerr watches daughter Calliope (13) as she lowers herself out and begins to jug the infamous Nipple Pitch during the first known mother-daughter ascent of the Zodiac, El Capitan. Yosemite National Park, California. Photo: Eliza Kerr

Letter from a Mother to Her Village

By Eliza Kerr   |   May 11, 2018 May 11, 2018

May 14, 2017, Mother’s Day. Dear friends, yesterday I topped out on the Zodiac on El Capitan. Some of you have loyally and patiently supported me for almost six months while I prepared for and fretted about this adventure. Some of you have no idea what the Zodiac is. No… Read More

In one month we found a line, hiked all our gear up, attempted a climb, failed, found a new line, ground-up bolted it over seven days, attempted to free it, rescued our climbing partner when he broke his leg, evacuated him from Madagascar, returned to Tsaranoro one partner down, and then freed it over three days, culminating in the first ascent of Blood Moon (5.13c/8a+). Photo: Alastair Lee

Finding Granite and New Limits in Madagascar

By Robbie Phillips   |   Oct 28, 2019 October 28, 2019

I wake early to the dazzling heat of the African sun. Perched 400 meters high on a huge granite face in central Madagascar, all I can see is black and blue, the color of the Malagasy granite meeting the sky and, coincidentally, the same color as large areas of my… Read More

Photo: Marko Prezelj

Spomin: The Memory Lessons

By Luka Krajnc   |   Aug 30, 2017 August 30, 2017

When I was ten years old, I was a hyperactive kid who had problems staying focused for a long period of time. One day I was sitting in class at primary school, listening to a subject that didn’t really interest me. Bored, I started playing with the scissors that I… Read More

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